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Skagit River Journal

of History & Folklore
Subscribers Edition, where 450 of 700 stories originate
The most in-depth, comprehensive site about the Skagit
Covers from British Columbia to Puget Sound. Counties covered: Skagit, Whatcom, Island, San Juan, Snohomish & BC. An evolving history dedicated to committing random acts of historical kindness

Noel V. Bourasaw, editor

810 Central Ave., Sedro-Woolley, Washington, 98284
Home of the Tarheel Stomp

Mortimer Cook slept here & named the town Bug

Introduction to Ray Jordan transcriptions
and Chapter Three Yarns

Find below: Introduction to all our
Ray Jordan transcriptions
Chapter 4 . . . Endnotes/Annotations
And at links . . . Chapter 1, Part 1 . . . Chapter 1, Part 2
Chapter 2, Part 1 . . . Chapter 2, Part 2
Chapter 3 . . . Chapter 5

Introduction to Ray Jordan transcriptions By Noel V. Bourasaw, re: Ray Jordan, Yarns, 1974 Many readers have asked questions about the more obscure references and relatively unknown pioneer names in the first five chapters of Ray Jordan's book, Yarns of the Skagit Country, written from the 1960s onwards, self-published in 1974 and very rare. Back in the period of 1960-75 when he wrote these chapters, at least the old-timers in town knew who most of the people were whom he referenced. But now, 35 years later, the names and businesses from pioneer Sedro and Woolley are largely obscure and unknown.
We are enthused to learn this week that the Skagit County Historical Museum in LaConner is still planning to reprint the book in the near future. After talking to Jordan's widow a decade ago, we decided to honor her request to publicize widely his stories and columns. So we have built over the last ten years a special Jordan Portal section and these transcriptions mark 36 of his chapters from the book and his columns in the Skagit Valley Herald. As a boy Jordan arrived in old Woolley in 1901, by train from Kansas, with his father Lafe Jordan; we have never read about his mother. Among his first-hand experiences with pioneers were the times as a boy when he slept on top of dynamite boxes at the ranch at the western end of modern Cook Road, where David Donnelly, the butcher and Mortimer Cook's successor at the ranch, was paying to have it cleared, drained and tiled to control the water table, with the help of Jordan's father, and they were also addressing the fires underground in the ancient peat bog.
We wanted to completely annotate these first five chapters because so many readers have written asking questions about the more obscure names and businesses that are not familiar to many of us. So we share more than a hundred annotations and links. As you will notice, the annotations are about ten to one in pages so you will find considerable annotation to peruse. We will soon also publish some of Jordan's unpublished manuscripts, courtesy of the late Fred Slipper. These first five chapters are unedited for grammar or spelling, with only a few punctuation marks inserted. Ray's notes in the actual transcription portions are in parentheses ( ) and our annotations are indicated in brackets [ ] with short notes and links to endnotes and Journal profiles. Endnotes will be indicated at the end of each chapter, and will often include complete mini-biographies of pioneers and their businesses. We hope that readers may be able to add definitions of some items and background on families of pioneers. Again we thank the ace researcher of Sedro-Woolley, Roger Peterson, who supplemented our search and pointed out discrepancies as well as other documents and photos. Please note: the source most often posted, Illustrated History of Skagit & Snohomish Counties, published 1906 and still the bible for local historians, is often referred to as 1906 History.

This photo shows a skid road, constructed of halved logs spaced a foot or two apart. Gravel or sand was sometimes distributed around them and logs were drug across them from the felling site usually to the river or landing where they would be picked up for transportation to the mill. Sometimes the skid row progressed to a puncheon road where planks were laid across to enable wagons to traverse. These were located all over the logging area of the Northwest.

Chapter Four, transcription Ray Jordan, Yarns, 1974

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The old puncheon road running east out of town up Skiyou way. You had to sit humped over on the wagon seat to keep from breaking your back [or] stubbing toenails off while going barefooted; ouch!
Curry's Furniture Store. We bought a stove there in 1906; and it's worn out already. Pete Vanderford, a man who seemed to grow older only in years, a person who could look back to old times or with equal pleasure to the new. The Emmett Van Fleets, who homesteaded just east of Sedro-Woolley. They have holly trees on their place big enough for saw logs.
Susie Alverson (maiden name Osterman) and her husband Ted, partners for a long time. Susie arrived here about 1895 with her parents, who later ran the old Osterman Hotel. Susie is still carrying on her good works for the benefit of the unfortunate, as she has for many years. She is a storehouse of information on early-day Sedro-Woolley history, a gallant woman.
Handsome, well groomed [Theodore] Bergman with a mustache I always admired. The Heggs who have perhaps handed more groceries over the counter than any other family in the county. Billy Osborne, who lived northwest of Sedro-Woolley on the Old [F&S] Grade Road, a hard worker and a good trader. Stendals all over the place as far back as my memory serves me. This family has furnished one of the most durable mayors that Sedro-Woolley ever had. Stay with it "Puss." Shingle bolt sleds shod with Australian ironbark, skid roads and oil-spattered kid skid-greasers. The old fore-and-aft logging roads when ground leads were used. I don't see people cooling coffee in their saucers anymore. Is it a lost art?
G.R. Bever, who spent some time in Washington while it was yet a territory. He returned to Kansas, married, and then came back to Washington where he reared a large family in the vicinity of Utopia. Roy and Alma Bever (Mrs. Carl King) and Brown Wiseman comprised the first eighth-grade graduating class from the Utopia School. Bill Grace, janitor at the old Sedro-Woolley grammar school. He had some tough assignments when the big boys became too unruly for the teachers. Harry Bean, when he covered the county with one horse and a wagon, buying hides and scrap, a square shooter who has prospered.
Breaking carts, kicking straps, surreys, carryalls, buggies (some of the later models had hard rubber tires), shingle-bolt wagons with high stakes around the bed, shingle bolt hooks and picks used in loading. Did you ever do any harder work than loading water-soaked bolts on a wagon? The old skookum house that used to stand about where the new post office is now. John Cully says there was an older one on what is now Skagit Steel property. Eating watermelon on the back porch. Real, dyed-in-the-wool charivaris where you either treated liberally or the crowd took the place apart.
[Albert] G. Mosier, dean of engineers, who, up until a short time back was engineer for the same town that he laid out in 1889. Unique. If all the lines that A.G. has run were laid end to end, they would probably reach around the globe. His mind is still as bright as a new dollar. Mrs. Lena Hall (formerly Lena Kallock), [actually Kalloch, Glenn Hall's mother] whose father homesteaded in the vicinity of Bottomless Lake. She knows all the angles of pioneering and is a very interesting person.
Do you remember being psychoanalyzed in the woodshed with a razor strop? Percentage of cures was high and the cost low. Marble games in the dust. The height of a boy's ambition was to own an agate "Taw." An ordinary "aggie" cost a precious ten cents, but if you were really opulent you had one that cost fifteen cents that elevated you to exalted circles. Young gamblers have been seen going home wiping their eyes after they had lost their marbles to a more expert shooter in the game of keeps."
Now I hate to start an argument, but here is a question for you old rigging men: Do you think it is possible to break a new one-inch choker with a two-horse logging team, using a whip on a double luff for rigging? A correct answer to this one will expose your age, so be careful. Also, did you ever see the main line or haul-back break in two places at the same time? Loggers carrying pitch kindling home. When tin pants were tin pants that would stand by themselves in a corner at night and wore out only when the legs broke off. Ten-foot falling saws, two-tooth bucking saws, undercutters, fish oil used for saw oil (it smells, bad) and chasing on a ground lead.
Long-line skinners (teamsters), jerk-line skinners, and just skinners, gore sticks, jockey sticks, spreaders, sweat pads, curry combs and brushes, salves and liniment for sore horse shoulders, roaching shears, and a certain much- used fork. Skinners spent very little time in bed. Most of it was consumed in cleaning the mud and sweat off the horses, feeding, watering and harnessing them, doctoring sore shoulders, and using that certain fork.
Those logging horses were big, some weighing a ton, and were amazingly intelligent. On the four, six, and eight- horse teams the lines were usually wound up on the hames while working, and the skinners, by using "gee" and "haw" and a special brand of profanity and horse talk kept everything under control. When horse traders used to camp around the edge of town at intervals, usually in the spring or summer. It was fun watching some of the local innocents trying out the new bargains that they had just traded for.
The numerous men seen walking the railroad tracks with their "bindles" on their backs. The more professional ones rode the rods or boxcars. Some were looking for work and some were dodging it. Mysterious symbols chalked on the premises of good- hearted people, the monikers of St. Louis Slim and A-1, famous hoboes, on railway stations and box cars, a dying Knight of the Road we once saw as an eight-year-old in the shingle shed at the end of the railroad spur east of Borseth Street where the Old Grade Road begins. Jim ("Jitney") Smith, early day logger in the Thornwood area, who later ran a jitney around Sedro-Woolley. Remember when the loggers packed their "soogans"?"
When you saw a man hunting for his blanket rope, you knew that he had just suddenly severed his connections with the company. You never shook hands with a departing logger friend because you knew that you would soon see him again in some other camp, and often you didn't know his right name.

Endnotes Chapter Four
Puncheon road That is the road along the northern shore of the Skagit River, east of Sedro, that extended out to George Green's sawmill at the Skiyou Slough. By the turn of the century, it became known as Hoehn Road and was planked. At different times in the 1890s the cedar market was glutted by overproduction during the nationwide Depression so perhaps lumber was acquired at a bargain price. We will soon feature a profile of Hoehn, who appeared in Sedro-Woolley in 1889, after riding as a boy and a young man for various ranches from Texas to the Mountain States. He also rode briefly for Buffalo Bill, or at least said he did. He established a livery stable on Ferry Street, south across the street from the Wixson Hotel, and after it burned to the ground in the great July 1911 Woolley fire, he rebuilt at the northeast corner of Ferry and Murdock streets, where Skagit State Bank stands in 2011. We hope readers will have more documents and photos of the Hoehn family, who also made a mark in the Chuckanut Drive area south of Blanchard. [Return]

Curry's Furniture Store

William H. Curry

W. Harvey Curry (1879-1940) was a Wisconsin native who moved to Woolley in 1901 and rose through the ranks of Frank and Anna Herron's Grand Rapid Furniture Co. on the western side of the 800 block of Metcalf Street. Curry bought a partial interest in 1908 from Herron's original partner, a Mr. Lucas. Before his death, Herron sold controlling interest in June 1912 to Curry, who renamed the business Curry's Home Furnishings in 1917. Originally located on the east side of the 800 block, Curry moved the business across the street in 1915 when Len Livermore razed the old wooden building to erect his own building for his Ford dealership. Curry's wife, Albertha Curry, was a long time teacher in the Sedro-Woolley graded schools after shorter periods in Prairie, Mount Vernon and Avon. The store evolved into Ferngren Furniture and Bus Jungquist Furniture. [Return]

Pete Vandeford We have little information about Pete other than he was born Joel Peter Vanderford on Oct. 16, 1869, and died in Sedro-Woolley on May 9, 1854, and was the son of James C. and May Ellen (Cutshaw). We do not know if he was related to Bert Vanderford of Lyman. [Return]

Emmett Van Fleet (1849-1916) Emmett and Eliza Van Fleet and their toddler, Eva, moved to the Skiyou district from Fleetsville, Pennsylvania, in May 1880 and the family established themselves as among the most important pioneers of the Skiyou district and Sedro, including Eliza and her daughter, Ethel Van Fleet Harris, important early recorders of our history. You can read about the family in several Journal stories, including this Portal section. [Return]

Susie Alverson was a celebrant at the ninth birthday of this author. She is at the left and I am in front of (from l. to r.): Victor Bourasaw, my father; the late Jerry Bourasaw, my brother; Dixie Latimer and Lloyd Latimer. Susie was the best friend of the author's mother and may have planted the seed for this project. As a debutante of old Woolley at the turn of the 20th century, she literally knew all the pioneers and enumerated them for county records. And she kindly showed me her large photo scrapbook when I was too young to realize what a treasure it was. I hope that her collection surfaces one day.

Susie Alverson (1881-1965) Susie was the dearest friend of the editor's mother in Sedro-Woolley and he wishes he had paid attention when he sat in her parlor dozens of times in the house on Warner Street next to the Heggs and the Lishernesses and across the street from the Renfros. You can read a profile of Suzie and her parent's famous hotel here. Her father, James Osterman, was a telegrapher at The Crossing on the Nooksack River in the 1870s. Later, when he was an invalid, he and his wife, Margaret "Maggie" (Harkness) bought the original St. Clair Hotel in Sedro-Woolley in 1897 after managing the grand, old, but doomed Hotel Sedro in new Sedro.
The Osterman House Hotel's location, at the northeast corner of Ferry and Metcalf streets (presently the site of the Gateway Hotel), evolved under their ownership into the hotel for traveling men and manufacturer's representatives in the newly merged town of Sedro-Woolley. Susie grew up in the hotel and became a local debutante as well as the "Hello Girl" for the first telephone line.
In 1906, Susie married L.E. "Ted" Alverson, who moved here at the turn of the century from Marengo, the home town of so many wives of the town fathers in the 1890s and of banker Charles E. Bingham, but Ted was a laborer and logger. Ted's father was a druggist in Marengo, but Ted did not follow that trade either. He was city clerk of Sedro-Woolley at one time and in 1912 he was appointed manager of the Interurban railroad line and then manager of the Woolley store of Stone & Webster Electric Co., parent of the Interurban. After Ted turned over the managership to Charlie Nye, he joined Susie in the business she started, a music store, located first in the Lederle building on Metcalf street (800 block) and later on State street. She was a charter member of the Territorial Daughters Chapter One, which started in 1936. Susie established an identity of her own in Sedro-Woolley, completely separate from her parents and from her husband. By the time that I was in grade school in the 1950s, she was the grand old woman of town, who collected vital statistics on local residents, riding around in her touring car with her Irish setter, King. She had an exquisite photo album, with photos of the town that have not been seen anywhere else, on a special wooden stand in her parlor. It has never surfaced and we hope that a reader has seen it or knows who might own it now. [Return]

This photo of Star Grocery represents the growth of health consciousness that sprang up in America in the teen years of the 20th century after people were exposed to the facts of the unsanitary nature of the food chain. Ted Bergman began this grocery store at the northeast corner of Woodworth and Metcalf streets and followed the rules of the sanitary market movement: he decided against the colorful but unsanitary cracker barrels used by prior grocers, and he displayed meat and vegetables on ice.

Theodore "Ted" Bergman (1880-1973) The large Bergman family from Sweden arrived in Sedro on Aug. 26, 1892, after earlier scouting trips. Theodore was the son of Henry and Anna Lisa Bergman. Henry worked as foreman on the Mortimer Cook ranch, while Ted boarded with the Cook family on Ferry Street before Mortimer's death in 1899. Ted also worked as a clerk for Fritsch Brothers Hardware in the early 1900s. The 1913 Polk Directory noted that Ted had opened his Star Grocery at the southern side of the alley on the western side of the 700 block of Metcalf Street. When Dentist J.S. Baldridge erected a brick building there, Bergman moved his market to the northeast corner of Woodworth and Metcalf streets, across Metcalf from the Fritsch store (Janicki Building in 2011). It was the first Sanitary Market in town, replacing unsanitary barrels with displays, many of them iced, courtesy of the Northern Pacific Railroad. He married Ella Johnson, a school teacher, in 1914. The grocery failed in 1924 and Ted moved his young family to Bellingham, where he sold automobiles. His daughter, Joyce Rickman, who lives in Camano Island and Othello, has been a very valuable resource for Journal stories about Sedro-Woolley and upriver mining. [Return]

Puss Stendal

Puss Stendal, circa 1960s

Percy A. "Puss" Stendal (from 1894-1922) was one of seven children who came from Ballard with their parents, John and Mary Stendal, when they took jobs as cooks at the Van Horn logging camp in 1905. In 1907 the Stendal family moved to a farm near the F&S railroad tracks on the way to Cokedale Junction. In 1921, a year after John's death, the remaining family moved the house onto Central Street where it still stands as an apartment house. Puss had married Mildred Hegg, of the grocery family, in 1917, after being trained as a teacher at Thomas Normal School in Detroit. He graduated from Sedro-Woolley High School in 1915.
In 1917 he took a job coaching all high school athletics at Blaine High School and then served for a year in the U.S. Army. When he returned, he decided to turn to retailing and clerked for the Union Mercantile store until it liquidated in 1935. Then he tried hardware for awhile and managed Donnelly's Gilmore Service Station, as he also became a city councilman. During World War II he clerked for (Tom) Black's Quality Shop on Metcalf Street. In 1944, he became mayor pro tempore, replacing Gust Gilbertson, and he served four terms altogether, for a total of 13 years. Many old-timers from that generation revere that period, post-War, as the time when Sedro-Woolley was a vital retail center and many veterans moved here to start and manage businesses. Puss was one of the leaders in the American Legion, which became one of the most important fraternal, as well as social clubs, where veterans could meet and form business relationships as well.
In 1946 Puss joined Gene Mohler and Tom Black in purchasing, White Fuel & Transfer, a business that had a history back to the very earliest days of old Woolley. Back in 1916, Charley White and Bill Ropes bought out Frank Hoehn's livery stable, which dated back to the early 1890s. Then, in 1927, they bought another business from that period, the Skagit Commission Co., which had built the first granary. They added a big line of heating appliances, stoves and furnaces to supplement their sales of coal and oil. He retired from daily active involvement in the company in the early 1960s.
We plan a more substantial profile of Puss and his family in the near future. He had three boys, Ralph, John and William "Billy Ray" Stendal. We have lost Ralph and John, who were both machinists at Skagit Steel, but Billy Ray — who also served as mayor — is still one of the most important historical resources hereabouts. John Stendal helped debunk the various rumors about the derivation of Puss's nickname, especially those who linked it to his experiences as a young man working in the woods out here. Actually, John noted, the name was affixed to him as a boy in Eau Claire, Wisconsin, where the family lived until they moved to Ballard in 1903. [Return]

George Riley Bever (1860-1940) Emil Jech's descendant and Bever relative Jon Jech supplied Riley's obituary, which was published in the Courier-Times after his death on Dec. 23, 1940. He was 80, born in Greenfield, Indiana, on Dec. 8, 1860. After his father died of his Civil War wounds, his mother moved her young family by covered wagon to Kansas. He married Maggie Wells of Salina, Kansas and in 1898 they moved their family to the Sedro-Woolley area, a decade after Riley originally lived and worked in Washington for the Northern Pacific Railroad and two years after they moved to Georgetown (Seattle) where he worked at the Rainier Brewing Co. They had eight children, including daughter Zola, who married Ray Jordan and they lived mainly in the Utopia district, east of town. After farming for a living, Riley retired and the couple bought a house on West Moore Street, which was later moved to another site in favor of the expansion of Skagit Steel & Iron Works. [Return]

Skookum house Ironically this adjectival form, skookum house, means jail or prison, as opposed to. Skookum tumtum,or a "strong heart", which is generally translated as brave or possibly good-hearted. In the Chinook Jargon, skookum is also used as a verb auxiliary, as in can or to be able. "He's a skookum guy" means that the person is solid and reliable while "we need somebody who's skookum" means that a strong and large person is needed. A related word, skookumchuck, means turbulent water or rapids in a stream or river — chuck is Chinook Jargon for water, stream or lake. Skookum, either alone or in the combination skookumchuck, occurs in dozens of place names throughout the Pacific Northwest region and beyond. In this case, Jordan is referring to the original combination of city hall, fire hall and jail that stood on the western side of the alley between Metcalf street and the present post office and served the newly merged town of Sedro-Woolley until the next city hall was erected in 1930. We have not been yet confirmed Cully's memory about the other jail. [Return]

Edith Elana "Lena" Kalloch Hall (1884-1958) What a family, as we will soon see in an upcoming Journal profile of the extended Kalloch family. She was born May 25, 1884, in the Prairie district, the daughter of Amariah Kalloch III. Her father was a leader in digging out the original road, from the Cranberry Lake area to Mortimer Cook's Sedro, that eventually evolved into Highway 9; the present Kalloch road is a very truncated version. Her uncle was Isaac S. Kalloch, the central player in our profile, who started as an abolitionist preacher, was forced out of his church for womanizing, then led a secular life in Bloody Kansas, later somehow became mayor of San Francisco in 1879, after an attempted assassination, and wound up in Sehome, dabbling in the railroad boom of the 1880s. Her locally famous sibling was Harriet Kalloch Howard, whose wonderful short autobiography is featured in the Skagit County Historical Society book, Skagit Settlers. She married Albert S. Howard, the pioneer mill man, at Edison in 1888. Lena married Lyman Sylvester Hall on March 4, 1903, and Glenn Hall, the longtime Sedro-Woolley High School teacher who recently died at 98, was their son. See our profile of Amariah. [Return]

Marbles

Young loggers reveled in posing for photographers, such as Darius Kinsey in this instance, and showing their derring-do and bravery, as they lie in the undercut of a gigantic fir tree somewhere in the North Cascades foothills. Imagine the thrill one's intended would feel as she imagined the tons of tree that teetered just inches above her true love. You can see hundreds of Kinsey photographs at the Whatcom County Museum in Bellingham.

Fifty years on from Central School years, the editor still hopes when passing by to see children playing marbles as we did every day on the edge of the baseball field back in the 1950s. Thus far to no avail. Do kids play marbles any more on school grounds? I remember many joyful games. [Return]

Hames A pair of curved metal (or sometimes wooden) pieces lying on the horse collar of a horse harness, taking the pull from the traces. [Return]

Soogans Quoted from an online site: Soogans (and various other spellings) were the quilts that cowboys, especially in the northern tier of the US, used inside their tarp bedrolls. My wife and a friend are currently researching soogans, and I've provided her with several references from my very own personal library (Ramon Adams, "10,000 Goddamn Cattle", and some others). I suspect that because the bedroll was often tied with rope and served as a chair, the word comes from the Irish "sugan."
"A soogan, which is pronounced 'sow-gan' as in 'sow a lawn,' not as in female swine, and not 'sue-gan,' as a lot of folks pronounce it, is your bedroll. That and your warbag--which could be anything from an old feedsack to a fairly fancy valise — was everything you carried on a trail drive that you didn't wear or have in your saddlebags." There is a reference to sugan in the book by Kenneth Swan Splendid was the trail. (Source referenced January 2011) [Return]

See the links at the top to read other chapters, with annotations

Links, background reading and sources

Special Jordan Portal section, 36 of his chapters from the book and his columns in the Skagit Valley Herald.
Library portal section, including books to read and reviews and transcriptions of books and newspapers.

Story posted on March 7, 2011
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Introduction to Ray Jordan transcriptions and Chapter Three Yarns

Introduction to Ray Jordan transcriptions
and Chapter Three Yarns